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Argentina

67 images Created 19 Jun 2016

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  • Late-night patrons at El Preferido de Palermo. The cafe opened as an almacen, in 1952 when owner Arturo Fernandez arrived from Asturias, the province on Spain's lush north coast. Still teeming with shelves of canned eel, olives, and good wines, the grocery shares tight space with trendy orange and green tables where a limited menu is served to Palermo's young and hip. A photo of Francis Ford Coppola graces the counter, but the barrio's real luminary, Jorge Luis Borges (the street bears his name), lived across the way from 1901 to 1914. (Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    Buenos_Aires_Cafes_36.jpg
  • Sports memorabilia and homages to tango singer Carlos Gardel reflect in the windows at Cafe de Garcia in Buenos Aires'  Villa Devoto neighborhood. Garcia, opened in 1937 by the Garcia family, wears its past on its "sleeves." A Boca Junior T-shirt signed by Diego Maradona joins accordions, cue sticks, wine skins, rifles, and numerous vintage items on shelves and yellowed walls. (Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    Buenos_Aires_Cafes_35.jpg
  • Local men enjoy a beer and games of billiards of chess at Cafe de Garcia in Buenos Aires'  Villa Devoto neighborhood. Garcia, opened in 1937 by the Garcia family, wears its past on its "sleeves." A Boca Junior T-shirt signed by Diego Maradona joins accordions, cue sticks, wine skins, rifles, and numerous vintage items on shelves and yellowed walls. (Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    Buenos_Aires_Cafes_21.jpg
  • Guests enjoy the food and neighborhood atmosphere at the Miramar vafe in Buenos Aires. The venerable cafe, started as a small grocer early in the last century, is a favorite haunt of the area's tango dancers and culinary aficionados. (Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    Buenos_Aires_Cafes_12.jpg
  • Guests enjoy the food and neighborhood atmosphere at the Miramar vafe in Buenos Aires. The venerable cafe, started as a small grocer early in the last century, is a favorite haunt of the area's tango dancers and culinary aficionados. (Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    Buenos_Aires_Cafes_09.jpg
  • Sausages and legs of cured wild boar hang at the Miramar vafe in Buenos Aires. The venerable cafe, started as a small grocer early in the last century, is a favorite haunt of the area's tango dancers and culinary aficionados. (Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    Buenos_Aires_Cafes_17.jpg
  • Locals greet each other in the hallowed seats of Bar Britanico in Buenos Aires' storied San Telmo neighborhood. Frequented by British war veterans and railroad workers in the mid-20th century, the bar took on the name of its patrons. (Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    Buenos_Aires_Cafes_46.jpg
  • Locals greet each other in the hallowed seats of Bar Britanico in Buenos Aires' storied San Telmo neighborhood. Frequented by British war veterans and railroad workers in the mid-20th century, the bar took on the name of its patrons. (Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    Buenos_Aires_Cafes_45.jpg
  • Kathleen Kao shivers from teh cold as she and traveling friend Huw (cq) Whyment, of Swansea, Wales, snaps a photo of teh Perito Moreno glacier in Argentina's Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, Tuesday, Nov. 21, 2006.<br />
<br />
Kao (American) best reached by e-mail at kskao@yahoo.com or 512-791-3992<br />
Whyment best reached by e-mail. He's traveleing for the year. bigholiday@googlemail.com (not gmail)<br />
<br />
(Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    WWT_Glaciares_03.jpg
  • Birds fly from the façade of the church at the verdant ruins of the mission at San Ignacio Mini, Argentina. Scores of Jesuit missions in the area where Paraguay, Argentina and Brazil meet were built in the 17th century and abandoned when the Jesuits were expelled in the 18th century. Ruins of some of these missions still haunt hilltops in the region. (Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    Missions_31_Ignacio_Mini.jpg
  • An original tile floor lies exposed to the elements at the verdant ruins of the mission at San Ignacio Mini, Argentina. Scores of Jesuit missions in the area where Paraguay, Argentina and Brazil meet were built in the 17th century and abandoned when the Jesuits were expelled in the 18th century. Ruins of some of these missions still haunt hilltops in the region. (Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    Missions_29_Ignacio_Mini.jpg
  • A stray dog wanders the verdant ruins of the mission at San Ignacio Mini, Argentina. Scores of Jesuit missions in the area where Paraguay, Argentina and Brazil meet were built in the 17th century and abandoned when the Jesuits were expelled in the 18th century. Ruins of some of these missions still haunt hilltops in the region. (Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    Missions_27_Ignacio_Mini.jpg
  • Katharina Wiest, center, and Laudia Manthey, right, of Germany, watch tango performers in the Plaza Dorrego in Buenos Aires.<br />
<br />
Manthey can be reached at +49-30-2935-2150 or claudia.manthey@berlin.de after 3/5<br />
<br />
Wiest wll be travelling until September, but can be reached by e-mail at katha.wiest@web.de or by phone after September at +49-711-311-225 <br />
<br />
(Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    Why_We_Travel_02.jpg
  • A street performance character who calls herself "La Malera," counts change made by posing with passers by for photos ion the Plaza Dorrego in Buenos Aires. Noted Argentine author Jorge Luis Borges wrote often about people on the margins -- thugs, knife fighters, prostitutes and scoundrels. The magic realist author influenced the work of many of the western hemisphere's greatest writers.<br />
<br />
(Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    Borges_Characters_31.jpg
  • Street performers dressed as early 20th-century immigrants rest on the Plaza Dorrego in Buenos Aires. Noted Argentine author Jorge Luis Borges wrote often about people on the margins -- thugs, knife fighters, prostitutes and scoundrels. The magic realist author influenced the work of many of the western hemisphere's greatest writers.<br />
<br />
(Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    Borges_Characters_34.jpg
  • A street performance character who calls herself "La Malera," waits to pose with passers by for photos ion the Plaza Dorrego in Buenos Aires. Noted Argentine author Jorge Luis Borges wrote often about people on the margins -- thugs, knife fighters, prostitutes and scoundrels. The magic realist author influenced the work of many of the western hemisphere's greatest writers.<br />
<br />
(Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    Borges_Characters_27.jpg
  • Patrons of the Mundo Bizarro bar in Buenos Aires' Palermo neighborhood enjoy drinks and conversation under dim red lights. In the wake of a disastrous nightclub fire that temporarily closed all the discos in the city, bars are seeing a lot of action. (Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    BA_Nightlife_02.jpg
  • Patrons of the Mundo Bizarro bar in Buenos Aires' Palermo neighborhood enjoy drinks and conversation under dim red lights. In the wake of a disastrous nightclub fire that temporarily closed all the discos in the city, bars are seeing a lot of action. (Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    BA_Nightlife_03.jpg
  • Maria Sol Irianni, 3, dressed in a Welsh costume to show off her roots, sposes in the patio of the Ty Gwyn teahouse in Gaiman, a small town in Patagonian Argentina. Welsh immigrants tames the desolate land along the Rio Chubut in the 1860s. Their ancestors now embrace their Welsh roots in more than a dozen teahouses. (Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    Welsh_Patagonia_20.jpg
  • Welsh language grave stones stand at the Moriah chapel in Trelew in Patagonian Argentina. Welsh immigrants tames the desolate land along the Rio Chubut in the 1860s. Their ancestors now embrace their Welsh roots in more than a dozen teahouses. (Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    Welsh_Patagonia_04.jpg
  • The setting sun reflects in windows at the historic Moriah Welsh chapel in Trelew in Patagonian Argentina. Welsh immigrants tames the desolate land along the Rio Chubut in the 1860s. Their ancestors now embrace their Welsh roots in more than a dozen teahouses. (Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    Welsh_Patagonia_05.jpg
  • The setting sun reflects in windows and over Welsh language grave stones at the Moriah chapel in Trelew in Patagonian Argentina. Welsh immigrants tames the desolate land along the Rio Chubut in the 1860s. Their ancestors now embrace their Welsh roots in more than a dozen teahouses. (Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    Welsh_Patagonia_01.jpg
  • The sun sets over Welsh language grave stones at the Moriah chapel in Trelew in Patagonian Argentina. Welsh immigrants tames the desolate land along the Rio Chubut in the 1860s. Their ancestors now embrace their Welsh roots in more than a dozen teahouses. (Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    Welsh_Patagonia_06.jpg
  • The sun sets over Welsh language grave stones at the Moriah chapel in Trelew in Patagonian Argentina. Welsh immigrants tames the desolate land along the Rio Chubut in the 1860s. Their ancestors now embrace their Welsh roots in more than a dozen teahouses. (Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    Welsh_Patagonia_02.jpg
  • The sun sets over Welsh graves at the Moriah chapel in Trelew in Patagonian Argentina. Welsh immigrants tames the desolate land along the Rio Chubut in the 1860s. Their ancestors now embrace their Welsh roots in more than a dozen teahouses. (Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    Welsh_Patagonia_03.jpg
  • The sun sets over Welsh language grave stones at the Moriah chapel in Trelew in Patagonian Argentina. Welsh immigrants tames the desolate land along the Rio Chubut in the 1860s. Their ancestors now embrace their Welsh roots in more than a dozen teahouses. (Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    Welsh_Patagonia_07.jpg
  • A local worker gathers wood for brick-making kilns outside of Gaiman, a small town in Patagonian Argentina. Welsh immigrants tames the desolate land along the Rio Chubut in the 1860s. Their ancestors now embrace their Welsh roots in more than a dozen teahouses. (Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    Welsh_Patagonia_18.jpg
  • Welsh descendants Gruynife Griffirts, left, and Elvin Brunt wait for a hardware store to open in Gaiman, a small town in Patagonian Argentina. At rear Ignacio Pallas, 11, watches. Welsh immigrants tames the desolate land along the Rio Chubut in the 1860s. Their ancestors now embrace their Welsh roots in more than a dozen teahouses. (Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    Welsh_Patagonia_08.jpg
  • Patrons of the Unico bar in Buenos Aires' Palermo neighborhood enjoy drinks and conversation under dim red lights. In the wake of a disastrous nightclub fire that temporarily closed all the discos in the city, bars are seeing a lot of action. (Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    BA_Nightlife_05.jpg
  • Bar patrons while the night away on Calle Honduras near the Plaza Serrano in Buenos Aires' Palermo neighborhood. In the wake of a disastrous nightclub fire that temporarily closed all the discos in the city, bars are seeing a lot of action. (Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    BA_Nightlife_04.jpg
  • Graffitti lines a wall in the Buenos Aires neighborhood of San Telmo. Magic realist author Jorge Luis Borges influenced the work of many of the western hemisphere's greatest writers. (Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    Borges_14.jpg
  • Photographs of noted Argentine writer Jorge Luis Borges are sorted among others of Argentines Ernesto "Che" Guevara and Eva Peron among others in a small antiques market in Buenos Aires. The magic realist author influenced the work of many of the western hemisphere's greatest writers.<br />
<br />
(Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    Borges_16.jpg
  • The face of a local man hints at the ghost of noted Argentine author Jorge Luis Borges as he sips coffee at the Cafe Petit Colon in Buenos Aires. Borges, a magic realist author, influenced the work of many of the western hemisphere's greatest writers.<br />
<br />
(Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    Borges_Ghosts_18.jpg
  • The face of a local man hints at the ghost of noted Argentine author Jorge Luis Borges as he passes the windows of the Cafe Petit Colon in Buenos Aires. Borges, a magic realist author, influenced the work of many of the western hemisphere's greatest writers.<br />
<br />
(Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    Borges_Ghosts_21.jpg
  • A tango performer talks to the crowd on Calle Florida in downtown in Buenos Aires. Noted Argentine author Jorge Luis Borges wrote often about people on the margins in the Buenos Aires of the early 20th Century -- thugs, knife fighters, prostitutes and scoundrels who danced the tango in dangerous bars. The magic realist author influenced the work of many of the western hemisphere's greatest writers.<br />
<br />
(Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    Borges_Characters_28.jpg
  • Tango performers dance on Calle Florida in downtown in Buenos Aires. Noted Argentine author Jorge Luis Borges wrote often about people on the margins in the Buenos Aires of the early 20th Century -- thugs, knife fighters, prostitutes and scoundrels who danced the tango in dangerous bars. The magic realist author influenced the work of many of the western hemisphere's greatest writers.<br />
<br />
(Kevin Moloney for the New York Times)
    Borges_Characters_29.jpg
  • © Kevin Moloney, 2003
    Fuego_016.jpg
  • © Kevin Moloney, 2003
    Fuego_010.jpg
  • The wreck of the Monte Sarmiento, a steam clipper that hit rocks and foundered in the Beagel Channel on April 2, 1912, sits near the former Estancia Remolino in Argentine Tierra del Fuego. At rear the "Dog's Jaw" mountains rise on Chile's Navarino island.
    Fuego_035.JPG
  • © Kevin Moloney, 2003
    Fuego_005.jpg
  • Children play in an Ushuaia yard, building dog houses with wind-blown cardboard and making guns from discarded plastic foam packing materials. Growing consumer culture is rapidly outpacing sanitation infrastructure projects in the towns of Tierra del Fuego. A sour national economy in Argentina means garbage disposal and littering laws are poorly enforced by a cash-starved regional government.
    03PurpleKids.jpg
  • European cruise boat travelers bid farewell to fellow passengers in Ushuaia as they disembark to continue their adventures in Patagonia. Though their numbers can inundate local infrastructure and fuel hurried development, tourists have also helped many Fueguians see the economic advantages of their glaciers, forests and mountains. Pro-development governments have been slowed by grassroots environmental movements hoping to preserve regional wilderness for its own sake as well as for its potential as a tourist draw.
    08CruiseHug.jpg
  • Unmarked graves at the Salesian mission in Río Grande, Argentina, echo the quick end met by Tierra del Fuego's four native ethnic groups after the arrival of seal oil and land hungry, disease-carrying Europeans and Americans. On his arrival in the 1870s, Anglican missionary Thomas Bridges estimated the Yamaná population at 3,000. Some dozen years later he closed the door of the mission and took up sheep ranching due to a lack of souls to be saved. By the 1920s, Fr. Martin Gusinde counted perhaps 40 Yamaná living traditionally. Today only two 70-year-old sisters claim to be full-blooded Yamaná. They are the last Fueguian Indians of any tribe.
    15Cemetery.jpg
  • Street dogs greet in Ushuaia, Argentina, where a century of intermittent economic booms have drawn thousands of immigrants to rapidly developed neighborhoods. With them have come waste management problems, pollution, and thousands of damaging abandoned pets that often kill regional wildlife to survive.
    01Dogs.jpg
  • A bird flies from the dry branches of a dead beech tree in Tierra del Fuego National Park.
    00BrokenLimb.jpg
  • The gray fox, a native of mainland Patagonia, was brought to Tierra del Fuego in the 1950s in hopes of putting the brakes on a scourge of rabbits introduced on the Chilean side of the island in the 1930s. Today the foxes roam in force the steppe of the island's north, and are rapidly pushing Tierra del Fuego's larger native red foxes out of prime habitat in southern forests.
    11ZorroG.jpg
  • Dancers perform polished tangos at Bar Sur, a venerable club in the Buenos Aires historic district of San Telmo.
    BarSur.jpg
  • Though a natural part of the North American ecosystem, the busy rodents have eagerly inhabited 90 percent of the island's river systems, causing probably permanent damage to trout spawning creeks, river drainages, water quality and the habitats along the edge of Tierra del Fuego's once-clear mountain streams.
    05Lunch2.jpg
  • Once Tierra del Fuego's largest land predator, the Fuegian red fox is under severe pressure from invasive mainland foxes and feral dogs.
    12ZorroC.jpg
  • Once Tierra del Fuego's largest land predator, the Fuegian red fox is under severe pressure from invasive mainland foxes and feral dogs.
    12aZColorado2.jpg
  • With a naturally small variety of wildlife, Tierra del Fuego is overrun with exotic species, the most notorious of which is the Canadian beaver. Nearly twice as many introduced species of mammals inhabit the region as natives -- including the dogs, cats, rats, mice, horses, cows and sheep that come along with human settlement. Among all of those, too, there are wild examples roaming the hills and forests of the islands. For the 10 native mammal species, there are 19 invaders competing in their environment.
    01Cover.jpg
  • By flooding river channels, washing out roads and cutting forested land, the beaver is the most visually damaging of Tierra del Fuego's invaders. They certainly catch the greatest institutional attention. The beavers, says researcher Julio Escobar, "have a visual impact that the politicians can see."
    03Fireland.jpg
  • A kite flies below the bright spring sun near Tierra del Fuego's Sierra Alvear mountain range. In 2000, the Antarctic ozone hole reached record size at nearly 30 million square kilometers — several million more than all of North America. In 2001 the hole was nearly as large and lingered even longer into its three- to four-month cycle. Scientists are watching to see if an anticipated reduction in the ozone hole will begin in coming years, showing the start of a recovery that may take a half-century.<br />
<br />
The size of the hole in 2000 attracted unprecedented media attention. Tourists stayed away from the region, fearing terrible sunburns. A slowing of the tourism economy made some locals red in the face. "It's not like there are ducks falling roasted from the sky around here," one travel agent in nearby Punta Arenas, Chile, said in the local paper. Though no serious problems have been seen in the human population, tiny effects in the local ecosystem may ripple through the environment for years to come.
    10TierraKite.jpg
  • Dancers perform a sensuous tango for tourists in a Buenos Aires plaza.
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  • A porteno couple basks in the sun in front of the Casa Rosada, Argentina's presidential palace, in Buenos Aires.
    CasaRosadaHarmonica.JPG
  • Pigeons fly over the Plaza de Mayo in downtown Buenos Aires, in front of the Casa Rosada presidential palace.
    BA_013.JPG
  • Mirrors draw the curious to an antique shop window in San Telmo, a neighborhood of Buenos Aires, Argentina.
    SanTelmoMirrors.JPG
  • Musicians perform a traditional tango at Bar Sur, a venerable tango club in central Buenos Aires.
    BarSurSinger.JPG
  • Street performers charm a crowd of downtown Buenos Aires strollers with mimicry of statues.
    BA_007.JPG
  • A pigeon flies over the painted corpse on the Plaza de Mayo in Buenos Aires. A protest group made up of the mothers of torture and disappearance victims from the Argentine military dictatorship of the 1970s and early 80s has appeared in the plaza, which sits in front of the Argentine presidential palace, to press for information about loved ones for more than 20 years.
    PlazaMayo_003.JPG
  • Lovers kiss in the evening light on the downtown Buenos Aires shopping strip of Calle Florida.
    BALove_001.JPG
  • © Kevin Moloney, 2003
    Fuego_015.jpg
  • Members of the Argentine coast guard prepare to parade in honor of the anniversary of the founding of the Fuegian town of Ushuaia.
    Argentina_004.JPG
  • members of the Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo, a protest group made up of the mothers of torture and disappearance victims from the Argentine military dictatorship of the 1970s and early 80s, tie on their signature scarves after a day of passing information on the plaza. The women have appeared in the plaza, which sits in front of the Argentine presidential palace, to press for information about loved ones for more than 20 years.
    PlazaMayo_002.JPG
  • The guard changes at Argentina's memorial to follen heroes of the Falkland Islands war with Great Britain. The war, in which Argentina violently asserted its claim over what it calls the Malvinas islands, brought about the end of military rule in the country.
    BA_012.JPG
  • Lovers kiss beside a fountain on the Plaza de Mayo in downtown Buenos Aires.
    BALove_002.JPG
  • Musicians entertain on the streets of the Buenos Aires neighborhood of San Telmo.
    BAHair.JPG